KL Food Trip: The Search for the Best Nasi Lemak
Nasi Lemak at Nasi Lemak Tanglin
No visit to Malaysia, especially in Kuala Lumpur (KL), is complete without sampling what is considered its national dish: Nasi Lemak! Literally “fat rice”, nasi lemak is a dish consisting of boiled or fried egg, cucumber, ikan bilis (fried anchovies), peanuts, sambal (chilli sauce), and of course the rice, which is cooked in santan (coconut milk) and flavored with pandan leaves. It’s usually paired with a viand, in which ayam goreng (fried chicken) is the most popular. Imagine the flavors and textures!
The dish originated in Malay communities by the seafront. Thus, the ingredients such as coconut (for the santan) and anchovies. The dish was prepared in packets of banana leaves and brought to the farmers working in the rice paddies. Through time, it gained popularity and was sold at markets and roadside stalls. Side dishes were also added and cultures began adapting the dish. For example, the Chinese added non-halal side dishes such as luncheon meat.
What was once a farmer’s meal eventually evolved into a restaurant dish. Even fastfood giants such as America’s McDonald’s and Philippines’ Jollibee are serving nasi lemak (at least in its Brunei branch). Creative people have even developed a unique spin or infused international influence into the dish. So there’s now nasi lemak burger, nasi lemak served with lobster, nasi lemak sushi, and even a nasi lemak cheesecake!
When I was in KL, I made sure I did a nasi lemak crawl to learn which eatery serves the best version. I visited 3 legendary spots that specializes on this amazing dish. To be clear, I’m not going to rate the rice itself because honestly, they all taste and feel the same to me. The rice were all fluffy and nicely flavored with coconut, and I really can’t tell the difference among the three. Rather, I will rate the dishes based on its overall components, including the viand of my choice. So without further ado…
Nasi Lemak Tanglin
Food Wars Asia, a show on Food Network Asia that pits two institutions against one another to determine which one serves a given dish, featured an episode on nasi lemak. One of the contenders is Nasi Lemak Tanglin. Formed in 1948, this spot has been serving its loyal following with its signature dish and a variety of flavorful viands. Mark Wiens, the world’s top food vlogger, even visited this spot.
My friends and I made this as the first stop of our KL trip. But to our dismay, it was closed. It was a Friday so we’re not sure if it’s because of the Friday Muslim prayers. It was also the weekend of Malaysia’s Merdeka (Independence Day) and of the Islamic New Year so maybe it was either or even both. So we had to come back again, hopeful that it will be open.
The following day, we were ahead of our schedule and had some spare time. So we decided to return and try our luck. Our risk paid off as it was opened! We noticed it from afar as there was a long queue!
The queue at Nasi Lemak Tanglin
But it was a quick wait and we were even entertained by a local artist singing English and Malay songs (this is normal in eating places). To our amusement, the performer even sang a song by Rivermaya, a Filipino band! He probably noticed that we’re Filipinos. We gave him a tip as appreciation. I thought it was a smart business move!
Anyway, we got the fried chicken, paru (cow lungs), and sambal sotong (cuttlefish). I may be wrong but I noticed that the boiled telur (egg) didn’t come with the nasi lemak, which I found unusual (it should be included), so we ordered it as well. The fried chicken was crispy and flavored with curry leaves, the cuttlefish was tender and doused in sambal, and the egg was also deep fried to provide a slightly chewy exterior. But what I like the most are the cow lungs, which is chewy yet delightful in the mouth.
The variety of viands at Nasi Lemak Tanglin
Cow Lungs and Sambal Cuttlefish Nasi Lemak (left) and Fried Chicken Nasi Lemak (right) at Nasi Lemak Tanglin
And before I forget, their sambal was nicely spicy.
Address: Kompleks Makan Tanglin (Tanglin Food Court), Jalan Cenderasari, Tasik Perdana, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 7AM-1PM (That’s according to my research. But our experience makes me doubt it. So visit at your own risk.)
R.A. Nasi Lemak
When I was researching for nasi lemak spots, R.A. Nasi Lemak would always show up. I guess it’s worth visiting. After all, Mark Wiens featured it in his earlier Malaysia vlogs. (That’s how much I trust Mark Wiens when it comes to food recommendations!)
At R.A. Nasi Lemak (look at the buffet spread!)
I like this spot for 2 reasons: It’s located in a roadside stall, reminding me of a carinderia (a Filipino eatery), and it offers its food buffet-style. So I helped myself with my rice, viand, and side dishes. Once I assembled my plate, I headed to the counter to pay my bill.
Because I already had cuttlefish and fried chicken in Nasi Lemak Tanglin, I tried R.A.’s beef rendang (beef stew made with coconut milk) and kangkung (water spinach) instead. The rendang’s gravy has a nice coconut flavor (can’t remember how was the beef) and the water spinach adds some leafiness (if I can use it as a description) to the dish.
My plate of nasi lemak at R.A. Nasi Lemak
Address: 15 Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kampung Baru, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Friday, 6:30AM-3PM; Saturday & Sunday, 6:30AM-12PM
Village Park Restaurant
We’re down to our last nasi lemak spot. It’s the second contender in the Nasi Lemak Food Wars: Village Park Restaurant. Although technically outside of KL, this nasi lemak spot has become a common destination for foodies visiting the Malaysian capital. Even Sonny Side of the Best Ever Food Review Show paid it a visit!
Village Park Restaurant
We came on a Sunday after lunch and the restaurant was packed! The restaurant had 2 (or 3?) floors but all the seats were occupied. It’s a good thing that the turnover was fast and our group of 5 was seated in a few minutes.
Village Park Restaurant is packed on Sunday after lunch!
Village Park is known for their Nasi Lemak Ayam Goreng (nasi lemak with fried chicken) so that’s what we got. There’s nothing spectacular with the nasi lemak components except for their signature fried chicken, which is juicy, tender, and amazingly crispy! There were crispies (excess of the batter) sprinkled on the top of the chicken, which adds to the texture. Between the chicken in Nasi Lemak Tanglin and Village Park, I’d pick the latter’s anytime!
Village Park Restaurant’s Nasi Lemak Ayam Goreng
Address: 5 Jalan SS 21/37, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Friday, 6:30AM-7:30PM; Saturday & Sunday, 6:30AM-6PM | Facebook: Village Park Restaurant
And the winner is…
Nasi Lemak Tanglin!
My friends will be surprised by this because I initially picked Village Park Restaurant as the best nasi lemak spot. But I changed my mind because I believe that nasi lemak is all about the mix of flavors and textures. Nasi Lemak Tanglin offers a variety of viands so that equals to a variety of additional flavors and textures. Village Park only has fried chicken to pair with their nasi lemak (unless I’m ignorant) so that limits the potential for more flavors and textures. If it were a fried chicken match, I’d pick Village Park. But nasi lemak is more than the ayam goreng.
By the way, Nasi Lemak Tanglin was the winner in Food Wars Asia. I’m just not sure if they chose it because of the same reason as I have. (I haven’t seen the episode because I couldn’t find it in the Internet. If you have a link to it, kindly comment it below.)
Bonus: McDonald’s a.k.a. Mekdi
Whenever I’m abroad, I make sure that I get to try Western fast food chains, especially McDonald’s. It’s because menus abroad are different (and way better) than the ones back home. Sorry, McDonald’s Philippines and other Filipino franchises. I hope you do better next time!
Anyway, I went to Mekdi (that’s how locals abbreviate McDonald’s) to try their version of nasi lemak, which is paired with fried chicken that’s 3 times spicier than usual!
The high-tech ordering kiosks of McDonald’s Malaysia and Nasi Lemak McD (Meal: MYR15.08)
Honestly (and nasi lemak aficionados may hate me for this), I think McDonald’s Nasi Lemak McD is good! It has a nice coconut rice and sambal. But the star is the fried chicken, which has a crispy skin, juicy and tender meat, and stay-in-your-mouth spiciness. Only missing are the anchovies and nuts (I didn’t see it on my plate). So if you have the opportunity, don’t miss out on McDonald’s take on Malaysia’s national dish!
Do you agree with my choice? Are there other nasi lemak spots that I should visit? Comment them below!
Other entries in the KL Food Trip series: The Amazing Local Food of Kuala Lumpur | The Street Food of Jalan Alor Night Market | Starting the Day Right with Breakfast
References:
http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_1739_2010-12-13.html